Can you make a Silk purse from a Sow's Ear?

I've never taken too much interest in Designer/High street collaborations. What's special about designer clothes, is the cut, the use of quality materials, and the relatively low chance of bumping into someone in an identikit outfit (unless you mix in the same circles of Victoria Beckham of course), Unfortunately, with the high street collaborations, these key factors get lost somewhere on the floor of the Chinese factories churning them out. All too often, what these collections represent is the desire to have a 'label'. Some people use labels as a status symbol, regardless of shoddy workman ship and low quality materials. This phenomenon is evident from the huge black market for fake designer handbags. If other people think you have a designer bag, that's all that matters, regardless of cheap fabric, broken zippers and child labor. Since 2004 H&M have launched these collaborations with fashion royalty including Karl Lagerfeld and  Roberto Cavalli , to a fanfare of media coverage, and hundreds of shoppers camping overnight to get a coveted piece of Designer on the cheap. But why?

Collaboration is a no brainer for a Designer. Paid a huge license fee, this is an opportunity to introduce their name to the young, potential designer shoppers of the future. It also acts as a test market for any designer considering launching a diffusion line. For the high street shop, a guaranteed sell out collection and the kudos of being associated with a respected fashion designer. But for the shopper? A 200 pound dress that half of London will be wearing at the office Christmas party. The fabric and cut will never live up to a real designer piece - the budget simply isn't there. As the old saying goes, you can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear.

Anyway, unless you’ve been living on Mars you’ll know that this month sees two big Designer/High Street collaborations. First up is GAP and Valentino, to mark the launch of GAP in Milan. Which is just plain odd. I've only ever bought plain white t-shirts and socks in GAP and a quick look at their website tells me they sell much else except misshapen jeans and khaki combats last seen in fashion circa 1998. Although the orange munchkin himself has retired, the House of Valentino under Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli continues to design some of the most intricately beautiful evening gowns worn by Hollywood elite to collect their Oscars.  Apparently we can expect 'luxurious basics'. I'm thinking silk tees and chinos but who knows...

The other collaboration that everyone is talking about is Lanvin for H&M. Despite my reservations about collaborations, I must admit my interest tweaked when I heard about this one. For me,Lanvin represents pure luxury. Images of the finest silk and the skilful tailoring spring to mind, Bejeweled fabric. Couture!. In other words, the antithesis ofH&M'S cheap and cheerful fast fashion. How on earth could it translate? Designer Alber Elbaz claims it will be H&M going luxury rather than Lanvin going public. Last week Elbaz released a preview video, and even a cynic like me has to admit the clothes look beautiful and undeniably have Elbaz' s signature lux factor. I’ve book marked a few items to check out when the clothes launch on November 23rd, but I'll reserve judgment until I've seen the clothes in real light, and touched the fabrics. With clever lighting and a beautiful model,  photographers can make even the nastiest fabric look appealing. The reality is often different.  Watch this space for my updates on launch day...